Recording Highs & Lows
by Barrett Golding

Every computer can be a digital audio recorder (and mixer/editor), with the right software. One of the best, and most complex, now has free version: Pro Tools (Win/Mac). Two simpler-to-learn, but less powerful, sharewares are Syntrillium's Cool Edit ($69 Win) and Felt Tip's Sound Studio ($25 Mac).

To record, you need a sound-source, a sound-recorder, and a cable to connect them; for instance, mic to mini-disc, or cassette to computer (for a pre-recorded sound). Manufacturers, intent on keeping consumers confused, have concocted a bizarre variety of digital & analog input & outputs. If you're unsure what works for your equipment, try asking our Tech Forum.

Once you've solved your in/out issues, you're ready to record. Any decent machine has meters that monitor the incoming sound level, and a volume control to adjust those levels. Whether you record to harddrive, tape, or mini-disc, the fundamentals are the same: Get Good Levels. These meters are registering well: high enough (just into the red) to mask the noise (inherent in all recorders), but not too high (always in the red) as to make the recorder distort. Digital recorders (DAT, mini-disc, computer), compared to analog (cassette, reel), are much less noisy, but much more sensitive to distortion. When recording digitally, never max out your levels. The meters above show strong average levels but safe peaks (loud parts). If your meter has numbers, keep the peak levels between -6db and -12db.

Once you've made the recording, play it back. If the recording is distorted, and the levels are in the red, maxxing out your meter: your levels are too high, turn 'em down and re-record. If there's too much noise, and the meters are barely bouncing, try re-recording with hotter levels -- if using a mic, try moving it closer to the sound. The world's best monitoring device are Your Ears. Trust 'em.

~By Barrett Golding